|
Contributed by pod
From PlanetSkunk
Let me start by saying this project is based off some recovered text from OG that provided me a parts list and basic direction. Since that tutorial is now unfortunately gone I decided to document my build so all you pictorial learners have something to see.
I think this design because it is relatively cheap, pretty easy to build, and offers flexibility. Depending on your grow room size you can make it longer or larger in diameter. I have a small chamber so I will be doing a short and small design.
Parts list:
6" Duct cap
4" Duct cap(I couldn't find one of these so I used a 4" collar and folded the tabs done and taped it closed)
4" Collar
6"X4" reducer
(2) 6" worm clamps
(2) 4" worm clamps
Hardware cloth (its in the fencing section, looks like chicken wire with 1/2" squares)
Lady's stocking(or Pantyhose doubled up)
Aluminum tap(or duct tape, aluminum sticks better)
Activated Carbon(for smaller filters you can get containers at the pet store, if you need alot look around to order bulk), it took one of the larger 28oz containers and one of the smaller ones to fill my design up.
EDIT: Some numbers you help you estimate the liters of carbon required(since it tends to be sold in containers maked by metric volume in the pet store, I may crunch the conversion to oz, later). To use these numbers multiple the side wall length you desire(in inches) by the number to get an estimated volume needed in liters(bank on needing a tad more to fill the space in the reducer cone):
8x6"= .36
6x4"=.258
Optional(for a fill/emptying port that doesn't require taking the bottom off.
1/2"x3/8" pipe reducer
3/8" pipe plug
1/2" conduit lock nut
Tools
Tin snips, wire cutters, or pliers
Screw driver
As I mentioned I am building a shorter filter so I am triming down the length of the caps and reducer where they meet the hardware cloth, if you have a larger design this step likely isn't needed. I used some masking tap to lay down a cutting path, I figure the width of the tap is plenty to secure a clamp to(see pics).
Since I couldn't find a 4" cap I bought an extra 4" collar and bend the taps flat and then tapped the end shut(see pics).
Next I cut the hardware wire to the length and width needed. For my design I choose a 10" sidewall lenth. The width needed is the diameter plus a little over lap. I left 2" of overlap on mine which is 4 squares. Either measure or wrap teh cloth around your end caps to determine the appropriate width. Cut the wire so it is flush with the wire crossing it so the aren't wires poking out. I went ahead and doubled some duct tap over the top, bottom, and outter flap on the wire to minimize any snagging issues when putting the tights over.
Next make a tube out of the wire and slip the clamps loosely over, then stick on the end cap and either collar or reducer depending on which piece you are working with(The wire goes on the outside). Side the worm clamp over the wire and ducting and snug it up. For a more compact design I used some plieres to snug up the grating and got the squares snug and inline. Then used some trash twist ties to tie up a few areas(I figure this will allow me to remove the clamps the apply the tights and but the clamps over the tights). See pics.
Next I removed the worm clamps from the inside piece(the wire held its shape due to the twist ties) put the appropriate fittings on each end and slide the stocking over. Due to my short design I was able to double the legs up and use the lower leg for the inside and upper leg for the outside. Slide the worm clamp over the stocking to the appropriate place and tighten down and trim. Stick the tab end of the collar on the inside piece into the inside of the duct reducer. Use foil tap on the inside to secure it. Repeat the same process for appling the stocking to the large piece as you did for the inside.
An option I decided to add to mine was a filling port, thus I can fill it when its fully assembled. I happened to have a 7/8" hole saw to drill the hold in the bottom. Make sure the hole lines up where the carbon will be when assembled. The fat end of the reducer goes on the outside and lock nut on the inside, the plug for when its filled. I used a funnel to fill it up, kinda a time consuming shake the carbon around process but its over with now .
EDIT: On retrospect I think if I was building another I'd bag the pipe fittings and just drill the hole. After filling it a couple pieced of aluminum tape would probably hold the carbon in fine.
Well there it is. I can't comment on the effectiveness at this point since I am still waiting for my first seeds to arrive.
Actually if you look on ebay it seems there are a few sellers already pumping them out. I didn't want to add any ebay purchases to my trail, it was a bit cheaper to do it myself, and I like tinkering.
|